By Anna Reisman
-http://www.vallartatribune.com/Food/552index.htmlIn this town where we are so spoiled by the plethora of excellent restaurants, it is inevitable for those of us who live here to acquire a few favorites. Bruce’s Back Alley has been one of mine ever since it opened on Francisco Madero. Now Bruce is gone and Jason Kilborne has taken over. Actually, it’s not just Jason. He’s accompanied by Amanda, his partner in the purchase.
This is a rather unusual couple because, just looking at them without knowing them, one would think that they’re way too young to run a restaurant… But looks are deceiving, trust me. I was fooled.
Jason and Amanda have promised to maintain Bruce’s high quality standards as well as the favorite dishes of the restaurant’s clientele. But they’ve added some new items, and probably will continue to do so as they become increasingly familiar with their client’s preferences.
When we went to check out the place -and the menu- last week, we noticed that indeed, most of the original menu has remained the same.
The salads and starters were still there: Tomato (with mozzarella), Arugula (with apples and Parmesan), the Baked Brie with warm strawberry purée, the «indescribable» shrimp cocktail, and of course, Bruce’s now famous Bistro salad (my favorite) and his «Bruceketta».
The list of chops, chicken dishes and seafood has been tweaked, with tempting variations on the original dishes, and of course, the steaks, Bruce’s claim to fame, are being prepared just as perfectly as always. That’s what the other diners who were there that night told me.
Personally, I just had to see if they would prepare the cold-water lobster as well as they did when Bruce owned the place. They did. Excellent! Complete with a lovely assortment of fresh veggies cooked just right.
And you can order pastas too now, fettuccine, linguine or penne, with Chianti, Alfredo or Bruce’s Special sauces. You can «build your own» and you can add toppings such as Italian sausage, smoked salmon, chicken and shrimp. Despite the fact that I had told him I was sated, Jason brought me a little tasting portion of a couple of them. Very good indeed, al dente, the way it should be, and nicely flavored too.
The other novelty is desserts. Ask for them, you will be most pleasantly surprised. I was. But I can’t tell you about them because they still hadn’t decided which they would keep and which not.
In case you’re not familiar with Bruce’s Back Alley, it’s been called a «charming, casual, fine dining chop house». In her review a while back, Brenda Retzlaff wrote: «Don’t expect a stuffy atmosphere at Bruce’s. It’s a «come as you are» bar and restaurant - with elegant food. Although, I do suggest you wear something comfortable as your waist will probably increase by at least two inches before you waddle out the door.
Bruce’s Back Alley Bistro has indoor seating for 40, and an open air rear tropical terrace seating 40 more, complete with his private daytime dipping pool and brightly colored plants.
We should mention that the USDA choice beef served there is properly aged, highlighted by the now famous rib eye, hand cut at the table, and served with crisp fresh vegetables and a choice of garlic mashed potatoes or baby reds. And you won’t need a steak knife to cut it! The sheer thickness of the tropical citrus pork chop stuffed with spinach, rosemary, garlic and mushrooms, and served over a warm maple peppercorn sauce, is most impressive… And there is a full bar with carefully chosen wines from 17 countries.»
Among the other things I personally appreciate at Bruce’s are the spotless cleanliness of the place, the fact that the kitchen is open for all to view the activity therein ...and the quiet! Bruce’s is only a half-block west of I. Vallarta, a main thoroughfare, and yet there are no noisy buses or vendors to disturb you while you dine.
Fear not, Bruce’s Back Alley is not located in an alley, it is at 225 Francisco I. Madero Street, tucked in the middle of the block, surrounded by little shops and apartments, less than 2 blocks from the beach. Brenda wrote: «You cannot help but notice the lovely façade, the wide open French doors, brick archways, warm ochre-washed walls and lushly-lacquered handmade tables with high backed chairs. If the ambiance does not catch your attention, the smoky scent of grilling meat will. One whiff will simply stop you in your tracks. While Mexico is not known for beef, Bruce’s Back Alley rivals any steakhouse from Alberta to Texas and everywhere in between.»
I couldn’t have said it better myself.
I strongly recommend that you visit Bruce’s Back Alley - for the quality, the choices, the size of the portions …and the prices. Tel.: 223-3860.
