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Summary
- Gringo Gulch is an upscale hillside residential area that got its name from famous foreigners who lived there.
- Visitors can experience the local culture by walking through the streets where dogs roam, Mexican music plays, and kids run around.
- The area is home to many landmarks and attractions, including the Puerto Vallarta Malecon (boardwalk), the Olas Altas Farmer’s Market, and the Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe church.
Puerto Vallarta’s Gringo Gulch is a lovely picturesque residential enclave in the historical part of Downtown Puerto Vallarta located on the north bank of the Cuale River on the El Cerro hillside. It is located slightly east of Centro. It was named after the fair-skinned Americans known as “gringos” who lived there in the 1950s and 1960s.
Without a doubt, it was the paparazzi photographs and reports of the greatest 20th-century love affair that helped promote Puerto Vallarta as one of the most romantic places in the world, and this all started in the area of the city (a town at that time) called Gringo Gulch.
As the first American enclave in Vallarta, this area evokes memories of a romantic bygone era of classic Hollywood. It was here that Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor’s epic affair grew into a two-marriage obsession. Other noteworthy Americans who have lived in Gringo Gulch include Peter O’Toole.
After the celebrations marking the 100th Anniversary of the town, in 1951, many visitors and tourists started hearing about this paradise town by the sea, US citizens arrived along with other Mexican visitors too.
One of the first important newcomers to arrive in Puerto Vallarta, that would direct the development in the area, was Fernando “Freddy” Romero.
The villas and houses in the neighborhood are colonial in design, mainly white with tiled roofs and covered in buganvilia. Mexico City engineer Guillermo Wulff also had a significant impact on the area’s design.
Throughout the decade of the 1950s, the area on the hill of the downtown area north of the River Cuale developed as an expatriate neighborhood.
Architectural Projects by Fernando “Freddy” Romero Escalante in Puerto Vallarta
Unlike the rich local’s architectural tastes, which included more modern construction designs and materials, Romero wanted a more typical Mexican pueblo style and atmosphere, something that later would become known as the “Vallarta Style” (in 1953).
This architectural style comprised whitewashed adobe facades, pitched roofs with red clay tiles, stone walls, and ornate wrought-iron. They also introduced the cupola (a dome-shaped structure that crowns the roof) to the architecture of the area.
Many of the houses they built are still standing. Casa Caracol (four houses away from Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton’s famed house, Casa Kimberley), Casa Catalina, Las Campanas (now part of Hacienda San Angel), Villa Bursus (also now part of Hacienda San Angel, previously bought by Richard Burton for his then wife Susan Hunt in 1977), Casa Tabachín (one of the first homes in Gringo Gulch, built in 1957, which John Huston rented while filming in 1963) and Casa Maria.
He built many of the houses – a time where most of the materials were transported on a donkey – in the Gringo Gulch and later on built the hideaway in Las Caletas for John Huston too.
Casa Kimberley, the most well-known mansion in Gringo Gulch, is located at Calle Zaragoza 446. When Richard Burton was in Puerto Vallarta in 1963 the star in John Huston’s film “The Night of the Iguana”, he was having an affair with Elizabeth Taylor, who had come along to take care of him. Liz Taylor received Casa Kimberley as a present from Dick Burton on her 32nd birthday. The couple also purchased the house across the street after they married. They renovated their houses and added a swimming pool.
Guillermo Wulff built them a bridge over the street to connect the two residences. The pink bridge is now known as the “love bridge.” After a fight, Taylor is said to have used this bridge to send Burton packing to his own home across the way, and it is also where they would meet to reconcile, hence another of the bridge’s nicknames: “the bridge of reconciliation.”
Some of his houses and designs include Casa Caracol, Casa Catalina, Villa Bursus (the house Burton bought in 1977 for his second wife, Susan Hunt), Casa Puesta del Sol and Casa Tabachín, built in 1957 and which John Huston rented after leaving Casa Kimberley to house Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor.
Those were the days of wine and flowers, when a passionate love affair between one of the world’s most beautiful women and a dynamic Welshman ignited the town. They lived, loved, fought, drank, and caroused with Peter O’Toole, Roddy McDowell, Katherine Hepburn, Spencer Tracy, and John Huston. The paparazzi attention and antics of these larger-than-life personalities were important in putting Puerto Vallarta on the map.
Another important personality linked to this neighborhood includes Guillermo Wulff, who left a profound mark in Puerto Vallarta and the Marina Vallarta, it was he who introduced the cupola as an architectural element in most of the homes he built.
He participated in building many of the houses in the Gringo Gulch, among these the houses of both Liz Taylor and Richard Burton, who enjoyed and relished in their Vallarta Love Story, during the peak of their film careers.
Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton fell in love at the set of Cleopatra in Rome, after that, they traveled to Puerto Vallarta in 1963 where Burton was to star in the 25th movie directed by John Huston, “The Night of the Iguana” to be shot mostly on location in the jungle at Mismaloya.
Puerto Vallarta was not well supplied at the time with adequate hotels for cast and crew and most were quite primitive, to say the least. Hotel Océano was a local favorite on the malecón beside one of the lighthouses and was the production’s headquarters.
When Liz Taylor arrived with Burton to both a dirt floor and flying cockroaches in what was to be their suite, Richard immediately called Huston and told him: “My friend, if we don’t find suitable accommodations for Elizabeth, I’m afraid I won’t be able to star in your film”.
John Huston immediately had the couple transferred to his own rented villa on the hill in Gringo Gulch, Casa Kimberley, and the rest is, as you may know, is history.
Not only did John Huston fall in love with the place, so did Liz Taylor and Dick, so much that Richard Burton ended up buying Casa Kimberley, a nine-bedroom villa for $57,000 and gave it to Elizabeth as a birthday gift for her 32nd birthday, February 1964, a few months after finishing the Iguana movie and a month before they officially married.
So take a trip down memory lane, enjoy the cobblestone streets, the relaxed and laid-back atmosphere, enjoy the views and traditional Mexican town architecture and you’ll really get an idea of what really made Puerto Vallarta such a tourist attraction.
FAQ
- What is the safest part of Puerto Vallarta to stay in?
The Marina and the Romantic Zone are considered some of the safest areas to stay in Puerto Vallarta. Both areas are popular among tourists and offer a variety of accommodations, restaurants, and attractions. The Marina is known for its upscale atmosphere, luxury resorts, and high-end shops and restaurants. It has a very secure, controlled environment with 24/7 security personnel. The Romantic Zone offers a more authentic Mexican experience with cobblestone streets, colorful colonial buildings, and a vibrant mix of galleries, cafes, and bars. As a central tourist area, it also has a strong police presence and is considered very safe.
- Where do locals go in Puerto Vallarta?
Locals in Puerto Vallarta enjoy spending time at the city’s beautiful beaches, scenic parks, and lively local markets. Popular beach spots include Playa de Oro, Playa Las Animas, and Playa Camarones for their soft sand and calm waters. Many locals visit the Vallarta Botanical Gardens to enjoy the lush vegetation and hiking trails. They also frequent authentic local food venues like Birrieria las 3 Regiones taco stand, cafes like Cafecito Vallarta, and neighborhood bars like La Cerveceria Union. The downtown Lazaro Cardenas market is a favorite for produce, spices, crafts.
- Is Downtown Puerto Vallarta nice?
Yes, downtown Puerto Vallarta is an exceptionally nice and popular area, celebrated for its vibrant mix of historic Mexican charm and a lively beach town atmosphere. It features a picturesque historic center with cobblestone streets, colorful buildings, and the iconic Parish of Our Lady of Guadalupe church. The downtown seamlessly blends into the scenic Malecón, a beautiful oceanfront boardwalk lined with fascinating sculptures, shops, and restaurants, making it perfect for strolling and enjoying the stunning ocean views.
The area offers an excellent variety of dining, from upscale restaurants to authentic street food, along with fantastic shopping in boutiques and art galleries. Adjacent to the main center is the popular Zona Romántica (Romantic Zone), known for its trendy vibe and energetic nightlife. The entire downtown is considered safe and is very walkable, allowing visitors to easily explore its captivating blend of culture, cuisine, and coastal beauty on foot.
Tip: For an unforgettable experience, head down to the Malecón or any beachfront spot about 30 minutes before the scheduled sundown to watch the spectacular sunset over the bay.
- What is considered old town in Puerto Vallarta?
Old Town, also known as the Romantic Zone or Zona Romántica, is considered the historic heart of Puerto Vallarta. It is characterized by its picturesque cobblestone streets, classic whitewashed buildings, red-tiled roofs, and a lively mix of shops, galleries, restaurants and bars. Nestled between the Sierra Madre mountains and Banderas Bay, Old Town has a traditional Mexican village charm with its colonial architecture and slower pace compared to the rest of Puerto Vallarta. Its romantic ambience comes from the area’s natural beauty, outdoor cafes, and charming boutique hotels. Old Town offers visitors a taste of an authentic Mexican neighborhood.
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